200,000 people pass through Madrid-Barajas every day, slightly more than the population of San Sebastián. Imagine the entire city of Donostia inside the airport. Now imagine that lunchtime is approaching and hunger strikes. In this medium city between heaven and earth, some passengers have just arrived, while others have three layovers. Some display severe jet lag, while others are fresh as daisies. There are those with generous budgets and those with XXS sizes. Travelers who opt for fast food and those with refined palates. Machine coffee addicts or specialty coffee enthusiasts. Pure vegetarians or flexitarians. Celiacs and gourmets, both, why not. Bar and tapas enthusiasts or more formal diners. The only thing these 200,000 traveling souls have in common is the soundtrack, the ticking of the clock. It's not a metaphor for life; it's because if they are not attentive, they miss their flight. Fortunately, airports are not what they used to be.
If we travel from Terminal 4 of the Madrid airport, that fantastic work by Richard Rogers Partnership and Estudio Lamela celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, one can easily suffer from FOMO. Gastronomically, the stimuli have skyrocketed. A revolution that began in 2023 and culminated this Friday with the opening of La Taberna La Ancha, a large space in a key passenger transit area where chef Nino Redruello serves the iconic breaded Armando steak, among other great hits from his culinary group.
Ana Paniagua, Customer Experience Director at AS Madrid-Barajas in Aena, leads this transformation. Her title already gives us some clues about her daily work. Paniagua navigates between the responsibility of providing adequate service to passengers and the challenge of creating experiences that they will remember. "This is not about eating something before traveling, but about starting the journey here," she explains to EL MUNDO at T4. "About enjoying before getting on the plane, during the layover, or even upon arrival." And since half of the passengers are international, many from Latin America, but increasingly from Asia, they must be able to offer what they like while also showcasing what sets us apart. "I don't want them to see the same as in Paris, London, or Amsterdam. I want them to see the Spanish brand and the Madrid brand. The airport should reflect all our cultural and gastronomic richness."
Escalope and tripe
La Taberna La Ancha arrives at T4 in collaboration with Areas, one of the most established operators in airports worldwide. They have the know-how of how catering works in such a unique place, with limited supply schedules, draconian security measures, and, above all, a wild rush hour. All, big and small chefs, have to adapt each dish. "Logistically, it's very different due to the peaks of people," confirms José Antonio Santos, Operations Director in Madrid for Areas. "The dishes have to be served much faster because the customer doesn't wait more than 15 minutes, 20 if it's a sit-down restaurant." La Ancha will serve a smaller version of the Armando escalopes. "Otherwise, it's impossible." To make their famous tortillas, those with famous toppings like tripe, squid, breadcrumbs, etc., they have installed five meters of ceramic. "The quality remains the same. The chefs have been trained in the group, both in the execution of the dishes and in the history of the Redruello family."
Kabuki Breakfast
"How much time do you have?" is the first thing they will ask you when you sit at Kabuki, another standout name that "raises the bar" at the terminal with fresh and high-quality products. The fusion restaurant, which for many has become a cult place, offers here, in addition to its classics, the creations of chef Alejandro Durán. By the way, this is the only Kabuki where you can have breakfast: It opens at 8 in the morning. Eggs Benedict with salmon? Avocado and tuna toast?
A few steps away, the Barcelona-based Flax & Kale offers 80% plant-based dishes and 20% with animal protein. It's the flexitarian option. If you want to try the soy burger with beetroot bread, this is the place. By the way, the cheese is made from cashews.
20,000 coffees and 12,000 sandwiches
The airport is an exceptional showcase, both for brands looking to establish themselves and for those seeking to expand into other markets. Around 30% of Adolfo Suárez's passengers are in transit. In fact, Madrid is the European airport with the most connections to Latin America. More data: of the 200,000 people passing through Barajas each day, 60% buy or consume. How much? More numbers: the airport sells 20,000 coffees, 12,000 sandwiches, 12,000 soft drinks, 7,000 pastries, and 7,000 burgers per day. "There are very few shopping centers, if any, where so many people pass by," summarizes Ana Paniagua.
For Paula Babiano, founder of Balbisiana bakery, being present at T4, "a national emblem," was, in terms of branding, "a dream". Their kiosk, inaugurated in 2023, has proven to be an experiment with very good results. "It was a somewhat unconscious decision because we didn't know what we were getting into, but we are doing very well in terms of revenue, and we are very happy." Paula explains that they are used to starting work at midnight to meet all orders on time, so logistics have not been a problem. "There are many security controls, so deliveries are much slower than in any other store." The product is also different, more convenience-oriented. But, beware, the Balbisiana kiosk has earned the reputation for having the best coffee in the terminal. Just look at the crew queue.
In total, there are 47 brands, large and small, and 80 different dining points. The concepts are very diverse. From fast food to gourmet stores like Sibarium or the Moscovitas kiosk. From Enrique Tomás' temple of ham to market concepts like Street, where you can choose tacos or noodles. From Tony Roma's casual dining to Italian options like Bottega and even haute cuisine signed by groundbreaking Michelin-starred chefs. "Each area of the airport must have an appropriate mix," explains Paniagua.
The Real Madrid sandwich
Among the most innovative features is a hybrid format similar to that found in Duty Free shops. "We realized that the shops had to evolve into something more dynamic and experiential," explains Antonio Simón, head of the operator Avolta (formerly Aldeasa). This led to the creation of The Corner by Real Madrid, a bar inspired by the Santiago Bernabéu stadium with a very Madrid-style menu of potato salad, Spanish omelets, croquettes, and sandwiches (the best seller is the acorn-fed Iberian ham sandwich) for passengers who don't have much time. And importantly, it's surrounded by every imaginable piece of official team merchandise. It's located in the Terminal 4 Atrium, just past security, one of the most prime locations for one of the most recognized brands among international travelers.
The Hungry Club by Dabiz Muñoz
And just a few meters away, another global ambassador for the Spain brand, Dabiz Muñoz, also arrives thanks to Avolta. The DiverXo chef brings his creative universe to many more people through Hungry Club, a cold bar that has indeed revolutionized the traditional Duty Free experience. Pedro Caño, who runs the restaurant, assures us that they are always innovating. "Bringing Dabiz's world to the airport has been a challenge. He is incredibly meticulous, scrupulous with the service, the equipment... His processes are different because he is always looking for quality, quality, and more quality. That's why he's the best chef in the world."
The menu changes every three months. Among the latest additions is the Japanese-Spanish salad with bonito tuna. Passengers will also find hot dogs with Asian twists, bikinis with irreverent touches, and yakisoba dishes that include such Spanish ingredients as Manchego cheese. "We were looking for something different from what other airports offer."