"Could you tell me where the Notarial College is?" asks a young passerby. It's the question one expects to hear on the streets near the Prado Museum. There, in the illustrious Jerónimos neighbourhood, in 1905, the historic headquarters of the Sociedad General Azucarera de España was located at number 5 Calle Ruiz de Alarcón, designed by Enrique María Repullés y Vargas.
Today, the splendid building with one of the oldest elevators in the capital has been transformed into a five-star luxury hotel, the highest category. Another amazing hotel? No, the new and unique Mercer Madrid is not just another one. It is a small gem - 61 rooms - full of details and personalities: the three-starred chef Eneko Atxa who debuts the restaurant La Sociedad Gastronomika; a Dry Martini, the cocktail bar by mixologist Javier de las Muelas; and an interior design by Andreu Carulla Studio that evokes many emotions at once: luxury, beauty, craftsmanship, excellence... That mix of tangible and intangible elements that make a hotel a destination in itself.
"As someone who values interior design and architecture, I was fascinated," admits Javier de las Muelas. Accustomed to larger bars, the bartender is, however, enthusiastic about the quality and solidity of his new bar Dry Martini. The master mixologist is in love with the alabaster lamp, the curved display cases, the stools, and even the footrest... that attention to detail that is in the DNA of the Mercer brand. De las Muelas, always eloquent, says that bars are "churches". True to his philosophy, the Mercer Madrid faithful will be served a menu of classic cocktails. With modern touches, yes, but without an abundance of ingredients: "Genius for the past hundred years has been in mixing two ingredients. Not in making salads or Christmas trees."
Transforming the protected Azucarera building has taken four years of work, many headaches, and significant doses of "sugar". Andreu Carulla, leading the interior design project, wanted to "stretch the gestures that Repullés had marked and at the same time give the space doses of sweetness and joy". A balancing act that has much to do with that silent luxury that defines the entire project.
Carulla's mission was to create something unique, but above all to "embrace the guest". The walnut wood walls and careful lighting effectively radiate warmth. There are many design elements that catch the eye, such as the lamp at the reception that may remind you, with its dimensions and curves, of the Crystal Palace in Retiro Park. Two large pieces of contemporary art dominate the entrance, although they actually nod to the past of this building: one pays homage to the sacks used to transport sugar in the past, and the other to the artisan baskets used to collect beetroot. The reception desk made of granite columns is also spectacular.
The rooms are designed for two or three people. Each one has a different modular shelf, where "things happen". Carulla calls it "silent engineering": it can hide the minibar, a vanity with a mirror, or a desk. All custom-made woodwork. The television is there but not visible. The lighting is soft. A sofa invites conversation. More than a bathroom, each room hides a "micro-spa made with Rosavel granite". Ceilings with theatrical mouldings, balconies overlooking the Jerónimos, freestanding bathtubs... Each room has its own charm.
One of the design highlights of this hotel is the Manantial spa. "Where am I?" customers may wonder as a rain curtain falls from the ceiling onto the small pool. It seems that Carulla has dug beneath Madrid and found a cave from another planet.
Fine dining with a txoko spirit
From the nod to the old Sugar Factory and, of course, the traditional Basque txokos, comes La Sociedad Gastronomika, Eneko Atxa's new restaurant in the capital. Each table, without a tablecloth, has roots collected from the surroundings of Azurmendi, where the chef holds three Michelin stars. But at the Mercer hotel, the kitchen where Atxa's team prepares the tasting menu is open. The final touches are given live in front of the diners, a way to immerse oneself in the kitchen and interact with the chefs that is indeed more like a txoko than a gourmet restaurant. The journey to the roots is also seen in the dishes, from the kokotxas al pil pil to the curd, but above all, in the emotion that each bite evokes... The magic of fine dining.