Its name says it all: "the most remote point," the meaning of the term ytri in ancient Nordic. The coordinates of the new hotel Ytri Island Retreat, a design retreat that blends with the environment, place it there in the Arctic Circle. Specifically, in the Traena archipelago, north of Norway and one of the most remote points from the mainland.
There lies the latest addition to the unique collection of accommodations and restaurants of Relais & Châteaux, which takes five hours by ferry from the town of Bodø (where the nearest airport is located), two and a half hours by speedboat, and 40 minutes by helicopter.
The latter is the best option, of course, if you want to enjoy a spectacular journey flying over the Norwegian Sea between picturesque fjords, still snowy peaks, and charming fishing villages, with their colorful houses lining the ports.
The different buildings that make up Ytri Island Retreat are inspired by them, as Træna, with 477 islands (the largest being the hotel's, also called Træna, with 443 inhabitants), is one of the oldest fishing communities in the country, dating back 9,000 years to the Stone Age, when its inhabitants were already capturing whales, herrings, and salmon.
That tradition is evident in every space. From the 38 rooms to the lounge or the library, each with large windows to contemplate the beauty of the rugged archipelago. "The owners' goal was for this to blend into the hotel, a couple from Oslo determined to support the character of these remote communities," explains Kine Willumsen, the complex's general manager.
They achieved this by hiring the Norwegian studios Vardehaugen Architects, with their successive blocks of various shades emulating an Arctic village, and Bonaparte Interiør, which signs a purely Scandinavian decoration that combines aesthetic elegance with functionality.
This translates into the holistic planning of the space, custom-made wooden furniture, soft fabrics, crafts by local designers, and floors made with recycled elements, as well as sand, stone, and shells from the island in the case of terrazzo. Custom lamps from Hadeland Glassverk, the country's oldest glassworks, are also added. "Ytri is more than a destination; it is a state of being, a retreat where people can return to stillness, nature, and a form of luxury that doesn't need to be shown, just felt," summarizes Karianne F. Rimmereid, creator of Bonaparte.
A special mention goes to the Alma restaurant, led by chef Sean Ryan, who showcases his sustainable and wild philosophy in tasting menus, highlighting the 12-course menu (although a four-course one can also be requested), which explores worldwide locations somehow related to this coast. The catch of the day is the crown jewel. Literally. They bring freshly harvested scallops to the table in a wheelbarrow to prepare them in front of the diner.
This is one of the surprises of the first part of the gastronomic experience, which takes place in a glass-enclosed kitchen among the herbs and produce grown in the complex's gardens. Here, diners also enjoy the whale tartare. Yes, controlled whale hunting is legal in the Scandinavian country.
Then, guests return to the restaurant in the main building, where the gourmet feast continues with dishes like mussels in hollandaise sauce, mushroom risotto, the original reinterpretation of the British classic fish and chips, the trout sandwich, and the lamb farikal, a national specialty with cabbage, black pepper, and salt.
Guests should also enjoy the wellness offerings, whether by joining a yoga or meditation class or a wood-fired sauna session with a cocoa ceremony included and views (like everything else...) of the exceptional nature of the place. The well-being expert Renata Rucka leads this, with extensive experience in retreats in Ibiza and Mallorca, guiding participants in an authentic immersion into the Norwegian sauna universe. And then, a -5 or 6º bath only for the brave.
The only thing left is to participate in one of the activities offered by the establishment, either within its facilities or in the surroundings, such as a hiking route, a fishing day, kayaking, diving, snorkeling, or climbing, or a boat ride to hop from island to island spotting dolphins and whales. If anyone wants to leave the hotel, of course.
The wellness instructor in a sauna ceremony.
Scandinavian Essence Integrated with Nature
The tides, the salt, and the tranquility of the Helgeland coast convey the Nordic essence of Ytri Island Retreat through minimalist architecture that moves to the rhythm of the landscape, culminating with mountains, lakes, and ancestral caves where in July, the Træna Festival takes place, one of Norway's most iconic music events. Not to mention those white sandy beaches bathed in the midnight sun, the protagonist of these days when light never ceases for 24 hours.
Ytri Island Retreat. Fløholmen, 8, Træna (Norway). Website: ytri.no Starting from 450 euros. More information on the Relais & Châteaux website (relaischateux.com), as it is one of the 580 independent hotels and restaurants in the collection, present in 65 countries.
