In an industrial estate in the Sevillian municipality of Salteras is located the largest manufacturer of hats for Orthodox Jews in the world: the company Fernández y Roche. Every year they produce around 100,000 hats of all kinds - classic, Panama, felt, top hats... - but there is one particular model that has made them an international reference: the one that covers the heads of Orthodox Jews.
In this religious tradition, the hat is much more than an accessory: it is a symbol of respect and distinction. Men cover their heads twice: first with the kippah and, on top of it, with a wide-brimmed hat, in a gesture that reminds that, above them, God is always present. "Our beginnings in the Jewish market date back to the 80s," explains Abraham Mazuecos, CEO of the company. "In addition to manufacturing hats, we also work with felt. At that time, our main felt customer was an Italian company that sold finished hats to a Jewish merchant inBrooklyn. But that company closed, and, concerned about losing their supplier, the Italians recommended us, as they knew that we not only manufactured the felt but also the complete hats." "So that man traveled to Seville to meet us, and that's how a relationship that has lasted 40 years began." The relationship, he assures, was so solid that, little by little, word spread, and they began selling to other communities in Israel and Europe as well.
It was not the first time that Fernández y Roche had to expand to other markets. The company, named after its founders, the Sevillians José Fernández Caro and Antonio Roche Verdugo, two apprentices in a small hat workshop who decided to start their own business. "A business that, despite the vicissitudes, experienced its heyday between 1910 and 1930, when it employed hundreds of people, especially women.
It was a very powerful economic engine for the province of Seville," they recall from the company. It grew so much that they had to relocate the factory. The original one was located in the La Macarena neighborhood, "very close to where they take out the Virgin of La Macarena," in the heart of the historic center. But "when the city industrialized and logistics were optimized, it was impossible for a truck to load and unload so many boxes on those streets. So the company reached an agreement with the Seville City Council: those lands were reclassified, and we moved to Salteras."
But the 30s arrived, and with them, the anti-hat movement, which emerged in the Spanish scene. It was a cultural and protest movement, framed within the Generation of '27, which rejected the use of the hat, then considered a symbol of social respect. "This caused a decrease in the production of Fernández y Roche hats, forcing them to look for other market niches, such as the Church, the Army, and distant countries like South Africa, Argentina, or Australia," and later, it would be the Jewish community that would boost their fame and consolidate their imprint.
"We only have seven clients within the Hasidic community, but they represent more than 65% of the company's total turnover." In total, Fernández y Roche sells around 100,000 hats per year, of which more than 60,000 are destined for Orthodox Jews. "Our main business focuses are in New York, and in the New Jersey area, where the main Jewish communities are located, and also in Israel. Here we have two important clients."
Therefore, the question is inevitable: Do Trump's tariffs affect them? "Believe it or not, we don't know," confesses Mazuecos. Hats destined for American Jews are exempt from import taxes due to an agreement between the Hasidic community and the U.S. government.
Still, faced with the possibility of a change, the company's manager admits that he would have to consult directly with his clients because "the way we operate is by having the order ready at the 'door'; that is, we are only responsible for manufacturing the hat, and it is the clients who bear the transportation costs and, in this case, also the tariffs." "We sell them to the client for a price ranging from 70 to 190 euros, but the retail price ranges from 120 to 400 euros depending on whether it is the United States or Israel."
"When Donald Trump announced the tariffs, we had already made all the shipments for Holy Week, which is our peak season," he explains. This year, Holy Week coincided with the Jewish Passover, one of the most important Jewish holidays, during which the liberation of the people of Israel from slavery in Egypt is commemorated. It is also a time when Jews usually dress formally and take the opportunity to wear new clothing, such as hats.
"To know the impact of Trump's tariffs on our products, we will have to ask the clients in a couple of weeks when we will send new orders again," he adds. But he ensures that he is not worried that a tariff on their products could jeopardize their sales or customers because "we pride ourselves on quality."
Unlike food, which must undergo a rigorous process to be considered kosher according to Jewish laws, hats are not subject to any specific religious ritual. However, their manufacturing is subject to strict quality requirements, tradition, and adaptation to the cultural norms of the Orthodox Jewish communities they are intended for. "The client comes periodically to the factory to carefully review the quality of the product in all aspects: from the quality of the raw material, the stitching, to the dimensions of the crown. They are very demanding, they detect any defect no matter how minimal." "This has positioned us as a world-renowned manufacturer, in terms of product quality, the Jews have been teaching us and 'forcing' us to increase our quality standards, which are very high," emphasizes Mazuecos, who, although not related to the Fernández y Roche family, carries the brand as if it were part of his DNA.
"Much remains from the origins of Fernández y Roche," he assures. "First, because the current president of the company is named Enrique Fernández; he is the great-grandson of José Fernández Caro, one of the founders. In addition, Enrique's son, also named Enrique, currently works with us as the production and procurement manager. So the fifth generation of the company continues to make hats. But the values, discipline, and quality of our work prevail, which is why we are known," he concludes.