The owners of Hotel California—and the entire town where it is located, Todos Santos, in Mexico—have always liked to play with the idea that this was the place that inspired the band The Eagles for their iconic song. They say that their leader, Don Henley, passed through this picturesque corner of the state of Baja California Sur during the hippie 70s and stayed here, which motivated the composition of the song in 1976.
The rumor of the supposed visit spread, so the place has been associated with the song ever since. It doesn't matter that the group decided to sue the property owners in 2017 for profiting too much without ever confirming or denying whether the legend was true or not. The matter was not very clear, as they reached an agreement and the lawsuit disappeared.
Therefore, the locals continue to insist that Henley was here and that he even encountered the ghost of the beautiful receptionist Veronica, who wanders through the rooms and offers wine to the guests. The truth is that the popular building opened long before, in 1950, when a Chinese immigrant, Mr. Wong—better known as Antonio Tabasco—settled here with his wife and six daughters in this beautiful enclave with a colonial atmosphere and privileged climate located between the Pacific Ocean and the foothills of the Sierra de La Laguna.
The exact location is right where the Tropic of Cancer crosses and the California peninsula ends. He named the hotel and was also the first to bring ice to the village, allowing him to offer the only cold beers in the area. A total success.
Be that as it may, the so-called pink palace due to the color of its facade is one of the essential stops on the tour of this magical town, an official title granted to municipalities that stand out for their historical, cultural, and natural heritage. And this town is abundant in all of that, with its name dating back to the famous Jesuit missions in California during the 18th century.
"Father Jaime Bravo founded Santa Rosa de Las Palmas in 1733. Specifically, on November 1, All Saints' Day," explains local guide Diana Rodríguez. He did it near a lush oasis that remains intact, with its palm trees and sugarcane fields, two kilometers from a sea coveted today by surfers from around the world.
The space of the original chapel is now occupied by the church of Our Lady of Pilar, built in the 19th century and the centerpiece of the Plaza de Armas next to the City Hall, the classic kiosk where bands play during festivals, and the Manuel Márquez de León theater, in neoclassical style. These, along with a few more, were created during the most prosperous period, in the mid-19th century, when a significant sugar industry was established here, attracting a wealthy society interested in cultural life.
In 1870, there were eight sugar mills. One of them has been transformed into a cutting-edge space, Santa Terra, which includes a winery, an oyster bar, elegant independent brand stores, and several art galleries.
That bohemian and intellectual vein is still present, attracting painters, sculptors, writers, musicians, and designers from national and international backgrounds who have come to live here, opening their workshops and galleries to the public and organizing successful festivals such as the Art Festival (which has been promoting activities in dance, literature, theater, and folklore for 27 editions), Reggae, or Cinema.
One of those artists who chose this town of cobblestone streets and vibrant colors as her home is Rose Ramírez, originally from Guadalajara (the one in Jalisco, of course), and founder of Bésame mucho, a concept store that features a Monument to the Sun inspired by Aztec calendars on its facade. Its interior, on the other hand, resembles a labyrinthine bazaar with objects ("unique and with their own meaning") from around the world collected by her during her travels.
From lucky charms to esoteric books, necklaces from India, bracelets from Oaxaca, or handmade hats like the one Salma Hayek bought during one of her visits. "She liked everything, and she herself posted a photo of the store on her Instagram," says one of the saleswomen, pointing to the passion-red sofa where the actress posed, which went viral on social media. "People want to take the same picture," she adds.
The store occupies one of the beautiful colonial-era buildings converted into boutique hotels, art galleries, stylish cafes, design restaurants, tattoo studios, craft markets (such as Cielito Lindo, a must-visit), or cultural centers like that of Professor Néstor Agúndez Martínez, where not only the town's history is told but also exhibitions, discussions, poetry readings, and various concerts are organized. All that's left is to enjoy the lively nightlife of Todos Santos, with plenty of clubs and terraces with live music where you can admire, margarita in hand, one of the most beautiful sunsets in this California.